Call it co-mingling, or call it corroding barriers, but outdoor is affecting fashion and fashion is affecting outdoor like never before. “The way we live is changing what we mean by performance,” stated trend forecaster Haysun Hahn during an event held earlier this year. “Most consumer product must be multi-task, cross-seasonable and sustainability-conscious,” she said, adding, “There is no one sitting here that isn’t wearing at least two pieces that don’t come from an outdoor active sport genesis.”

Hahn’s observation rings true far beyond the garb worn by her Outdoor Retailer audience that winter afternoon; today’s modern wardrobe features functional fabrics in products developed and designed for an urban/outdoor lifestyle. “So, when we talk about an articulated sleeve in an outdoor jacket,” explains Hahn, “it applies to straphangers.” Meaning that the same kind of body movement needed to hang on as the #6 subway barrels downtown during rush hour in New York City is similar to the freedom of motion originally constructed to enhance climbers’ performance. “The urban-centric idea is a very important idea,” Hahn concludes.

The latest textile technologies reflect this critical concept. Rugged is out; comfort is in. Lightweight layers have replaced bulky outerwear. Once pooh-poohed, aesthetics are now prioritized. Drape, texture, print, and hand/feel follow in the footsteps of breathability, moisture management, stretch, odor-control and weather-protection. Sustainability completes this contemporary blend of sport and style as the eco factor now ranks with function and fashion as the trinity of textile development.

The rise of athleisure has played a role in this evolution. “While the industry still caters to technical outdoor there has been a shift,” observes David Parkes, founder, Concept III Textiles. “Performance shifted focus to athleisure because it was something new, and sparked consumer interest,” Parkes explains, noting that changing weather patterns, together with today’s price-driven market are also key factors driving current trends, and thus giving way to textiles that offer year-round versatility in the form of lightweight yet functional outerwear and stylish performance fleece. Blends that balance performance aesthetics are top of mind. For instance, Concept III is keen on wool blends from merino specialist AMBT. “Business is strong with Tencel/wool, poly/wool and nylon/wool blends,” says Parkes.  

It’s not surprising that fashion has been circling the active/outdoor market in recent years as 7th Avenue brands increasingly recognized the advantages of performance as a differentiator that played well with a growing athleisure trend. Parkes gives as an example that he will meet with execs from Target, at Performance Days in Germany.

Others report similar experiences. “There is a lot of interest from fashion – not high-fashion — but 7th Avenue fashion with athleisure collections,” says Colleen Nipkow, global marketing director, Polygiene. “They have been coming to OR for a little while looking for textile tech that stands out.” Banana Republic will feature Polygiene in a new line of men’s underwear.

Polygiene odor-control technology and messaging that promotes wearability with environmental responsibility connects with today’s consumers. The company has built a foundation of partnerships in the outdoor market with its “Wear More. Wash Less” functionality, based on natural silver salt made from 100 percent recycled silver; a product that fits the need to keep garments fresh, sustainably, while experiencing outdoor adventures. The athleisure market sees this level textile tech as appealing to mainstream active lifestyle end use.

For example, Microban enters the field with a new patent-pending technology called Scentry Revive that neutralizes odor and maintains freshness without the need for frequent laundering. According to the company, while the average shirt might be laundered 50 times per year (consuming upwards of 454 liters of water per shirt), the same garment with Scentry Revive technology built into the textile would require only 10 washings per year, consuming only 25 liters per year via laundry, and states the company, “freeing up time for the consumer to do the things they love.”

There’s no one-size fits-all practice when it comes to social media, particularly within the ingredient suppliers’ arena. For many the whole “social media thing” is not familiar and thus considered “too expensive” and/or “too time consuming” to connect with consumers from the ingredient position in the supply chain. Others realize the relevance of being on Instagram and YouTube in today’s consumer-centric marketplace, yet continue to rely heavily on brand partners to lead the way in content and messaging. Some textile firms, however, are committing to digital, and reporting growth.

“We are definitely tagged more, and get more mentions,” explains Claire Smiley, who runs Polartec digital marketing, out of the company’s Andover, MA offices. “Our awareness by followers grew by 40 percent in 2017. It’s been good!” Smiley joined Polartec in August of 2016 and is the first employee to have a role dedicated to social media. Instagram has been especially successful, says Smiley, as has the ability to reach niche markets with passionate participants. “For Polartec, cycling is big. The company sponsors a continental team in Europe and that allows us to tap into a fanatical user group. Cycling has been a huge win,” states Smiley.

Judith Russell, global marketing strategist at Nilit America notes that “there’s a lot of innovative thinking happening at the brand and retail level, but not much back in the supply chain because any innovation that occurs there has a hard time getting through to the consumer.” She explains that sourcing people often act as the gatekeepers, prioritizing price; ingredient execs interested in social media should connect with marketing. “They are the consumer engagement people, that’s where it’s happening. You have to break down silos.”

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Jordan Standard The Jordan brand made its name as the vanguard in performance basketball shoes, pushing the envelope in tech and in aesthetics. (Let us not forget that it was the Jordan 1’s bold, against-the-rules color scheme, not its tech specs, that made it a game-changer.) That attitude is manifestly in evidence with the brand’s latest release, the Tinker Hatfield-designed Standard. The $140 shoe, which released April 30, takes inspiration from the 2004 Nike Sock Dart running style. A tonal all-black or all-white color palette, the Jordan brand’s iconic elephant print on the midfoot strap and the instantly eye-catching “feathered leather” on the forefoot pay homage to sneaker culture. But the style honors its performance roots, too. Lightweight construction and supportive foam cushioning under the foot give the style the kind of ride a Jordan wearer expects, and the entire shoe was designed to as easy to take on and off as possible: Stretch materials in the uppers, a heel loop and a hole in the tongue make getting in and out of the shoe a snap. Which, per Hatfield, is the key attribute: In a Nike press release, the designer said, “The simplicity of getting in and out of the shoe was as much a design focus as the aesthetic.”

Adidas Arkyn The brand describes the $140 women’s-only Arkyn style as combing elements of “streetwear, sportswear and high fashion into a single, fluid design,” and at first glance, the style reads as a fashion-house take on the idea of running with color-blocked details and dramatically oversized midsole with toe and heel spring. A stretchy, sock-like fit and pull-on construction are par for the course, but Adidas goes purely technical underfoot, using a visible block of its pinnacle Boost cushioning. The foamed TPU material is known for its incredible rebound, and launched in the brand’s running category before being widely adopted across the performance division. In lifestyle, it brings its distinctive pebbled Styrofoam look to the midsole, but adds a bouncy, responsive ride that appeals to athletes as well as comfort-seekers.

View the full issue here.